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Cape of Good Golf - Golf in Cape Town
Peter Smith

Imagine playing a round of golf on a perfectly manicured course, the warm sun on your back and just the gentlest hint of a breeze off the ocean. Mountains towering in the background, the aroma of millions of flowers, a birdie on the last and a cool beer sitting on the terrace as the sun sinks slowly over the horizon, sending up that glorious golden glow to bounce off tiny, high, pink-tinted clouds.

Is it a dream? No, it’s South Africa. Welcome to golf on another planet. At least that’s how it feels. If you’ve ever been there, you’ll already know all this. If you haven’t, prepare your senses for something totally different. An overnight flight gets you into Cape Town relaxed, and that’s how you’re going to stay for the next week or two.

The Cape area has two of the country’s top tourist destinations – Table Mountain and the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, with its exciting shopping and some spectacular hotels where service is not merely an aim, it’s a serious mission. There are great restaurants where the prices will stun you – you can eat a full dinner for less than what some fast-food outlet might charge for a measly hamburger – and you will enjoy some great golf with green fees so low you’ll be asking if it’s OK to pay more. Well, all right, you won’t, but you know what I mean.

It’s a good idea to stop in Cape Town for a couple of nights to acclimatise, relax and soak up the atmosphere. A visit to Table Mountain is a must – make a day of it and don’t forget your camera. And you have to explore the Victoria & Alfred Waterfront, a modern mix of good restaurants, lively bars and some designer shops along Canal Street where the prices are less than you’d expect. If you want to buy really cheap, you have to go “off-street” and be prepared to haggle. Good poker players will enjoy this.

Yet it’s the golf we’re here for and after a couple of days of relaxing, it’s time to chase a few birdies. ROYAL CAPE is South Africa’s oldest golf club, with a wonderful history dating back to 1885, although it was several years before it was awarded its royal warrant, in 1910. A parkland layout in Constantia, one of Cape Town’s leafier suburbs, it is a traditional, flat, tree-lined course where you will be treading in the footsteps of the world’s greatest golfers – the club has hosted eight South African Opens. Gary Player and Ernie Els have both won here, though whether they were in the trees as much as me is unlikely. As with all golf courses near the Cape, there will always be a breeze, sometimes fairly strong but invariably warm, which makes good golfers work the ball.

At nearby CLOVELLY, the biggest hazard is likely to be the mass of guinea fowl, peacocks and pheasants that thrive on this wonderfully natural landscape which rolls through the Cape Peninsula.

Wearing another hat, Gary Player has designed a new layout at FANCOURT, not far away near George, and built with luxury in mind. Four courses adçorn this impressive estate, which was also built with top-class golf in mind. The Presidents Cup will be held there this November.

At SPIER, built on a wine estate at Stellenbosch, the wine cellar is the clubhouse. In fact, no less than 41 wine estates congregate in the Stellenbosch area, and if you have time – hang on, make time! – you should visit a few of the estates and try just a sip of their finest nectar. Play golf in the morning when it’s a bit cooler, have lunch sitting on the terrace overlooking the course, and then visit the wine estates – being careful not to drink too much if you’re driving.

If you’re staying for longer, there’s the Garden Route out beyond Plettenberg Bay, with more golf, more sun, more wine and...well, you probably won’t come home. ERINVALE was laid out by Gary Player at the foot of the picturesque Helderberg Mountains. It was the venue for the 1996 World Cup of Golf, which was won by Ernie Els and Wayne Westner for the host nation. It comprises nine flat holes and nine on the mountain. That works up an appetite for lunch, I can tell you.

Then there’s STEENBURG, set in the rolling vineyards of the Constantia Valley, where wine production dates from 1682, though last year’s tasted pretty good to me. Only 25 minutes from Cape Town, it was designed by Peter Malkovich, one of South Africa’s best course architects, who was also responsible for the ARABELLA at the Western Cape Hotel, recently voted best new course in South Africa. While you’re at Steenburg, take a couple of hours at least to visit the famous Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens – you might get some good ideas for your garden back home.

HERMANUS is another course that has become very popular with visiting British golfers. In September and October, you are quite likely to see whales in the bay and you also have the chance to stay at what is rated one of the country’s best hotels, The Marine. And I couldn’t overlook SPARREBOSCH, which itself has breathtaking views overlooking Knysna Lagoon and the Indian Ocean. Can there be anywhere on earth better than this to play golf? I don’t think so. But after a week or so of golf, you might want to take a diversion into one of the game parks and go on safari. It would be crazy to go all that way and not do.

Most golf clubs in South Africa insist on softspikes and you should take your handicap certificate with you. It might be needed at some of the more traditional clubs. Weekend tee-times at some clubs may be more difficult than midweek, but the resort courses are open for visitors at all times. Caddies are inexpensive and can be very good, and although golf carts are available everywhere, you’ll find it much better to walk. After all, it’s good for you.

Drink plenty of water to avoid dehydration, use sun-block (the African sun is much stronger than ours, even bearing this past European summer in mind) and wear a hat. Tailored shorts are allowed – in fact, almost all the locals wear them, so go and get some sun on those legs.

The exchange rate for the rand is pretty impressive, so you’ll find that golf clothing and equipment are much cheaper in South Africa. Of course, you’ve then got to get the stuff through customs without paying too much when you return!

Spring and autumn are probably the best times to go to the Cape area. Although you can comfortably play golf there at any time of the year, their winter (our summer) can be a bit chilly, so it’s surely best to stay here for our summer and go there in our winter.